Delicious History

China Yuan is still one of my favorite restaurants in Tampa. Once again, I can’t recommend the shrimp won ton soup enough. The won tons hold whole shrimp and minced garlic and bathe in a light and flavorful broth. The perfectly cooked greens round out the soup. My only complaint is that I’m reluctant to order different soup because I don’t want to miss my favorite.

Speaking of favorites, the shorts ribs with black pepper sauce will always be one of mine. The sauce is punchy without bring too aggressive. The spiciness of the stir fried jalapenos have mellowed in the wok and blended with the other ingredients. Best of all, the ribs make ideal finger food, as it can be awkward to try to nibble the meat off while holding with chopsticks or utensils.

It is hard to pass up the baked goods at the Chinese bakery in the same strip mall. I believe the proper name of the business is “Lucky Bamboo Bakery”, but the sign says only “Oriental Bakery.” Clockwise from top: sausage and scallion bun, almond cookie, ham and egg bun, chocolate almond treasure, and wife cake. The buns make wonderful breakfasts, especially on a road trip. The cookie is crumbly and not overly sweetened. The chocolate almond treasure is more like baklava than anything else— very rich, practically impregnated with honey. The wife cake is most unusual, with a subtle hint of sweetness, almond, and coconut in the bean filling.

The University of South Florida area of north Tampa is rife with restaurants, but there is not much good food to be found. For some students and employees disgusted by USF’s deal with the latest devil. You will not find the name Aramark on USF’s dining page. That company currently holds the monopoly on USF’s foodservice. The monotony of campus dining drives some to insanity: giving up their scarce parking space to get lunch off-campus.

(Rant: It is a sad state when the supposed engine of innovation, discovery, and community hands over its vital workings to private monopolies. Today Aramark, a company that performed quite poorly when awarded a similar contract with Florida’s prison system, runs the show, and it is not very flavorful or diverse.)

When i can’t pack my lunch, I flee campus, a culinary refugee in search of superior victuals nearby.  That’s why it is great to have any good non-chain restaurants near the university.  Taj’s buffet has a room temperature table and a hot one.  The offerings are diverse but never seem to change.  Some variation would be nice, especially among the hot entrees.  That said, I don’t quibble when I dine at Taj’s Indian lunch buffet.  At $8, the lunch buffet is a very good deal.

It may not be the best Indian food I’ve ever had, but it sure beats USF’s monotonous drek.

They say flying isn’t fun any more. It wasn’t much fun in the first place, but what the talking heads mean to say is “flying isn’t fun for the airlines anymore.” They’re losing money, and we pay more for an inferior experience.

If I must fly, I bring supplies. You never know how long you may be delayed, and most of the food in the airport will either kill you or your wallet. Bring fruit, trail mix, crackers and firm cheese, sandwiches, whatever. Then sit back and dream of the great food you’ll have once you get to your destination. Chowhound.com’s message boards are a wonderful resource when planning travel.

I flew to Anaheim a couple weeks ago for business and pleasure. I gave a speech at the annual summer conference of the American Library Association about podcasting. I’ve been pretty busy lately making films at work. You can find them easily in ITunes U or You Tube. Aside from the conference, I visited Shane, a good friend and musician, in San Diego.

We started our visit with some wonderful Japanese food. This pork and tofu ramen was especially memorable: spicy, strangely sweet broth, with the firm ground pork, soft tofu, and slick noodles. Shane described Chopstix on Convoy St. as working-class Japanese food. That part of town is packed with Asian restaurants of every stripe, and the cramped competition fosters great food.

We missed a planned trip to Hash House A Go Go, but my breakfasts are satisfying. I like to scramble eggs with salsa. I cook the water from the salsa out and add butter and the eggs. Much better than watery eggs. Shane needs a toaster. I was too hungry to use the oven.

The Horny Toad Chili struck again in Sand Diego! Here’s I’m cooking the veggies and letting the cooked meat cool off.

Aww, shucks. I used a little bacon grease to start the chili, and crumbled the crispy bacon onto the cornbread before baking. It is a nice treat without adding much grease. Besides, it looks cool.  Next time I’m stuck at the airport, I’ll imagine this meal.

A new Ethiopian restaurant has drawn healthy crowds since opening a few months ago. Queen of Sheba on Henderson deserves the attention.

Queen of Sheba serves a nice combination of 8 different dishes, all served on the ubiquitous, spongy injera bread. I kept going back for more of the red lentils (top left), cabbage and vegetables (top), berbere-spiced chicken with boiled egg (center), and a wondeerful dark-sauced lamb (or was it beef?).

Not to be mistaken for warm, damp towels, injera bread serves as the meal’s plate and utensils. Its soft texture may disappoint those who like crusty bread. With all the saucy dishes, injera does not hold up well as a utensil. If you want a fork or spoon, one must apparently ask. The injera also tends to fill you up. We weren’t offered second helpings of the entrees until we had consumed an entire basket of injera, along with half of the virtual “platter.” It would have been a nice courtesy to tell us we could request seconds earlier.

Queen of Sheba’s food is full-flavored and the staff is friendly. Let’s hop that they can carve out a niche in Tampa, which has been bereft of Ethiopian cuisine since Ibex closed almost ten years ago.

I can’t go for very long without visiting Peter Chen’s wonderful restaurant, China Yuan. It is easily one of my all time favorites. He specializes in Cantonese cuisine, particularly Hong Kong barbecue. The only real contender in Tampa is the Yummy House down the street.

On a cold rainy night in 2002, I drove down Armenia and craved hot soup. I decided to try a restaurant that had once disappointed me– China Yuan. I didn’t know at the time that Mr. Chen had taken it over and vastly improved the food. I was immediately hooked, especially because i lived just a mile away.

I interviewed Mr. Chen several years ago and learned that his uncle had owned a Cuban Chinese restaurant in Tampa years ago. Chen’s recent expansion and renovation project makes for a very attractive restaurant with live seafood and roasted meat on display. I highly recommend it.

These days, China Yuan is a favorite of my family. We especially like sharing the food via the table’s lazy Susan. Begin with hot tea and the honey roast pork.  Shrimp wonton soup is light and abundant with fresh Chinese cabbage. The wontons hold ground shrimp and a nice punch of garlic.

We ordered the General Tso’s chicken for the kids, and found it was the best version we’d even tasted.  The Orange flavored beef was similar, but with the aroma of fried orange rind.  The walnut shrimp are my mother’s favorite, with candied nuts and a creamy glaze. Women in general seem to like this dish, including my aunt, who didn’t like Chinese food until we brought her to China Yuan.

The beef chow fun with black bean sauce is one of my new favorites. The broad noodles have a wonderful tender, chewy texture. The beef is perfectly cooked, the vegetables warm but crunchy, and the “dry” black bean sauce offers a wonderful briny kick.

Be sure to order vegetables, especially snow pea tips or Chinese cabbage. Mr. Chen grows the produce on his own farm in Plant City. The stir fried snow pea tips with garlic are the best greens in the world. I will have to get a picture another time.

For dessert, there is a nice Chinese bakery in the same strip mall. I prefer the walnut cookies and flaky almond bark. The savory buns are an ideal snack when traveling. The neighboring Din Ho market is among the best Chinese groceries in Tampa, along with Oceanic downtown, which is bigger.

I once took friends to China Yuan to celebrate some forgotten occasion, and announced I would pay the bill. This is usually a safe thing to do, as the prices there are so reasonable— most entrees average around $8-$11. We decided to order a fresh lobster. Mr. Chen brought it to our table, a huge specimen of writhing spines. When i asked how much it cost, I thought i heard him say seventeen. I was amazed, and couldn’t quite believe the price. When i got the bill, I confirmed that the beast cost $70. My friends had a laugh and I happily paid the bill— stir fried whole with vegetables and a light sauce, it was some of the best lobster I’d ever eaten.

Most of us are familiar with spring rolls, those excellent petite eggrolls made popular in Thai and Vietnamese restaurants. Trang Viet Cuisine in Tampa boasts all four seasons on a single plate. Any lover of Asian food and finger food should try this quartet at least once. It is one of many courses I’d like to eat during my last meal.

A wise man once say: As the celestial roll angels align, four sacred sauces appear to bathe them in glory!  The fried spring roll has a very delicate, flaky crust. Inside, a pork mixture with a grated sweet potato is fulfilling, but not greasy. Fish sauce accompanies.  The summer roll (known as the fresh roll in many other Vietnamese restaurants), enfolds vermicelli noodles, shrimp, fresh herbs, and a slice of beef inside rice paper (a sheet of thin pasta). It began as a specialty of south Vietnam.

The summer roll’s association with the season seems appropriate– the rolls are light, fragrant with mint and basil, and very easy to eat with the rich peanut sauce. In the intense heat of summer, such light food is essential. Cousin Pam, this picture is for you!

For several years, Trang’s Autumn roll was my undisputed favorite. A specialty of central Vietnam, Trang proclaimed his version the Autumn roll. It reflects the season well, with a cool collection of lettuce, herbs, and pineapple surrounding a mixture of ground shrimp and pork hot off the grill. The contrast of hot and cool works well, and the sweetness of the pineapple plays so well with the grilled meat and herbal bouquet. Trang’s original vegetable sauce is a crafty creation. Fish sauce also plays well with the autumn roll.

The winter roll seems rather unassuming at first. But it is balanced carefully, and probably represents the most nutritious roll of the four. Another favorite of south Vietnam inspired Trang’s mixture of grated jicama and carrot, Chinese style sausage, ground peanuts, dried shrimp, and flecks of scrambled egg. It seems light and comforting at the same time.

The Hoisin style sauce adds the perfect amount of sweet and tangy flavors to the Winter roll. It reigns as my current favorite, as well as Trang’s.

When i asked for something spicy on the menu, he ordered his mussels to my table. I had never tried them. I’m glad I did. Good God knows they’re fine. The incredibly lively sauce of citrus, chilies, onions, fish sauce, and cinnamon basil would make a great foil for grilled chicken wings. Or grilled anything. Ask for the mussels. Ask for them spicy. Tell him Andy sent you. He’ll know what to do.

PS: “He’ll know what to do.” I know that last comment was pretty cheesy, but it made me think about my favorite date or dinner party. First, I dine at Trang’s and talk to him about creating a menu. I book the table, the wine, and the meal while i enjoy lunch. Then, you just bring your guests to the table on the appointed night and Trang’s staff go to work. No need to order or even look at the menu. Of course, you want to know what the people like to eat before hand. It is an especially nice way to introduce people to Vietnamese food or show gratitude. You’re not just taking them to dinner, you’ve chosen a luxurious 4 to 6 course meal and wine as a distinct act of love.

Don’t forget the fried bananas for dessert. More about that another time.

I didn’t leave the house until I was already ravenous.  But I didn’t rush to the closest safe bet.  Instead, I went to Davis Island, of all places, to try something new.

I’ve heard about Estela’s for many years, which by now is a Davis Island favorite. I know the islands are the very center of some people’s universe, but it rarely occurs to me to drive out there to eat, especially when I’m really hungry.  I have a feeling that I might be doing it more often now that I’ve eaten at Estela’s. I find that Taconazo might be more my rough-hewn style, but Estela’s has a subtle charm, and its soups are perhaps the best examples. More about Taconazo another time.

A fellow historian has sworn by Estela’s chicken tortilla soup for years, and another friend especially favors the shrimp soup. The broth is subtle with tomato, minced vegetables, and herbs. i could have used a bit more fire, but that’s not unusual. The portion of shrimp was generous, as it should be for over $10. I’ve heard the price has climbed steadily as property values on the islands soared. While I will not argue with the price, having the option of a cheaper half portion would be great for people on a diet, or gluttons like myself who want to try a little of everything.

Behold, a lump of rich guacamole awaits discovery at the bottom of the bowl. It took me by surprise. The buttery richness of the guacamole puts this dish over the top, adding a new element to the dish that can be mixed according to your taste. The more you mix the guacamole into the soup, the more flavor it imparts. I think it is a better idea to serve the guacamole on the side, to be added at the patron’s discretion. I actually preferred the broth as it was, but it was interesting to note the changing flavors as i stirred in the guacamole.

The enchiladas with mole sauce were quite good, although I thought the filling could have been more generous, and the rice was plain— not bad, just plain. I like sour cream, and Estela’s guacamole is good, but the mountain of dairy on my plate, topped with a sprinkling of shredded lettuce, was far out of proportion with the enchiladas. I happen to like food with my dairy. I’d like to see the dairy served on the side and more food on the plate. A small salad would be ideal, or refried beans would do.

But i quibble. Estela’s tasted fresh, and the soups really do stand out. I’ve resolved to reconsider Davis Island a dining destination in the future. I will certainly return for another pass at Estela’s menu. I had a pleasant lunch at Chez Bryce down the street, so we haven’t heard the last burp from this part of town.

I wrote a variation of this article for the University of South Florida’s Oracle in 2003. It is one of my first published restaurant columns.

Trang and I have discussed writing a book together. I think it would be a wonderful project. Next, I’d like to post some excerpts of my oral history interview here. His story, traumatic and triumphant, exemplifies the American dream.

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I consider it my duty to try every off the wall restaurant I can find—the more obscure, the better. My long-standing favorite is Trang Viet Cuisine on Fowler Avenue. Most commuting USF students probably drive past it every day without knowing what they’re missing.

Trang’s is a restaurant in the true sense of the word. The term restaurant originated in Paris hundreds of years ago, and it was the name of a dish, not a place. For those who did not want to eat the heavy, greasy peasant foods at the inns and bars, or for those who had weak digestive systems, a few small cafes offered a brothy soup called restaurant—a concoction meant to “restore” ailing bodies.

A good approximation of the restaurants of the old days is Vietnamese Pho Soup. The broth is key in this dish, and is made by simmering beef bones and seasoning for a minimum of eight hours. When one orders Pho at Trang’s, you are brought a large bowl of the broth with rice noodles, kind of like ramen without any grease and minimal salt. Several paper-thin slices of raw beef are put into the piping-hot broth. By the time the bowl reaches your table, the beef is cooked. You are also brought a generous plate of bean sprouts, chilies, lime and fresh cinnamon basil to add at your discretion. The basil is essential, the sprouts add a great crunchy texture, and the chilies and lime give the broth a nice kick. Careful with the Vietnamese chilies, though, they are very potent and can overwhelm the delicate flavor of the broth.

For the less adventurous, the beef stew is wonderful, and the fried rice is fluffy with barely a trace of oil. The grilled meat skewers over rice noodles is an especially satisfying meal. The four seasons platter highlights Trang’s fabulous rolls: spring, summer, autumn and winter. They are all masterpieces of contrasting tastes, textures and sauces. In fact, you can’t go wrong with any of the appetizers, whether they are steamed buns, fried calamari, or stuffed chicken wings.

The quality of Trang’s food can be traced back to several sources. Trang grows his own herbs and some of his own vegetables on his farm in Lutz. Somehow, American cuisine missed out on herbs almost entirely, which is a shame. The fresh taste they impart cannot be beaten. The flavors are authentic and subtle. You taste the food and nothing more—no powdered stocks or heavy spicing to cover up inferior ingredients. The restaurant uses little or no oil. Unlike Chinese cookery, which bases entire dishes and sauces on the liberal use of oil, Vietnamese food often uses broths, infusions and salty fish sauce to moisten its dishes. Few menu items are fried at all. In addition, Trang has a great variety of vegetarian and vegan menu items. Many of the dishes use marinated and grilled tofu in place of meat. Unfortunately for you meatless people, dishes like Pho Soup cannot be replicated without meat, and they do not appear on the veggie menu.

The good news does not stop here, though. Trang offers great lunch specials before 3pm—soup, appetizer, and entrée for a mere $5.45 [these days, I think it is $6.25, still a great deal]. Just turn to the back of the menu.

Perhaps the most remarkable thing about the restaurant is the odyssey of the owner, Trang Viet. He grew up under French colonial domination, fled Communist incursions, joined the South Vietnamese army at the height of the war, attended school here in the U.S. as the war ended, and finally enabled his family to join him here in Tampa. Keep in mind that Trang gave up a lucrative career in computer programming just to open a restaurant with his family. How lucky we are.

Trang Viet Cusine

1524 E. Fowler Avenue

(813) 979-1464

I enjoyed a nice lunch at one of my stand-bys, Trang Viet Cuisine. Trang is a very nice guy and has carved out a niche of food lovers. His vegetarian and vegan menu is extensive and tasty. He grows much of the herbs and produce himself.  I’m convinced that Trang and I could write a great book about his amazing odyessey and the things he learned about food on the way.  I will write a full profile of Trang and his restaurant soon.

His lunch specials run about $6.25 for entree, soup and appetizer. Forget the chains– I don’t know any that could deliver such quality of flavor and ingredients for the same price. As starters, I had the summer roll (or fresh/spring roll) with peanut sauce and the sour shrimp soup. The porous-looking sliced vegetable in the soup is the stalk of an elephant-ear variety from Vietnam. The meatballs consist of ground shrimp.

Trang’s beef with lemongrass is one of my favorites, especially for lunch. For a lighter version, I substitute the vermicelli with shredded cabbage. The texture and flavor are great, but it doesn’t fill me up as long as the noodles.

One some mornings– especially Sunday mornings– I crave an excellent breakfast. Breakfast satisfies like no other meal, especially when I wake up hungry. When I’m too lazy to make it myself, I head to simple places nearby like Nicko’s diner, Three Coins, Martha’s Place, Pine Grove, Mom’s, Pop’s, and the Tropicana. When i want a better breakfast than the aforementioned places can provide, there are few options.

First Watch just doesn’t do it for me. I don’t want a sensible meal when I’m ravenous. If i don’t fall asleep when i get home, I’ve eaten sensibly. The best breakfasts are primal affairs, simple, and in the U.S., very rich. How much more fat and sugar can IHOP stuff into their french toast and pancakes? I had the greasiest eggs in my life at a Village Inn. But i digress.

If I have to eat at a chain, I go to Waffle House. I love the counter. And the hash browns. A double order. With onions. Well done. Crisp.

On to the show: when i want a breakfast a little nicer than the others, I head to Savvy Jack’s. The most recent owner is an agreeable French woman who changed the business in three great ways: She opened on Sundays, served breakfast during lunch hours, and added some French flourishes to the menu. I must try her potato and garlic omelet. I’m also thankful that she serves breakfast when i need it most. The former owners were a little over the top with their Christian decor, and always closed on Sundays, when i usually want a big breakfast the most.

On a recent Sunday, I was mightily tempted the chicken crepes, I went for the Jacks and Eggs instead. The banana and pecan pancakes, sweetened with syrup, played well off the salty seared ham and fluffy scrambled eggs.

The Bon Jour/Good Morning platter is your typical egg/meat/starch, well prepared.  When my buddy ordered a beef salad, it didn’t sound good to me at the moment. When it arrived at the table, I was quite impressed. He skipped the house vinaigrette in favor of blue cheese dressing.  Another friend enjoyed a simple plate of over-medium eggs, grits, and toast.