The four seasons according to Trang Viet
Most of us are familiar with spring rolls, those excellent petite eggrolls made popular in Thai and Vietnamese restaurants. Trang Viet Cuisine in Tampa boasts all four seasons on a single plate. Any lover of Asian food and finger food should try this quartet at least once. It is one of many courses I’d like to eat during my last meal.
A wise man once say: As the celestial roll angels align, four sacred sauces appear to bathe them in glory! The fried spring roll has a very delicate, flaky crust. Inside, a pork mixture with a grated sweet potato is fulfilling, but not greasy. Fish sauce accompanies. The summer roll (known as the fresh roll in many other Vietnamese restaurants), enfolds vermicelli noodles, shrimp, fresh herbs, and a slice of beef inside rice paper (a sheet of thin pasta). It began as a specialty of south Vietnam.
The summer roll’s association with the season seems appropriate– the rolls are light, fragrant with mint and basil, and very easy to eat with the rich peanut sauce. In the intense heat of summer, such light food is essential. Cousin Pam, this picture is for you!
For several years, Trang’s Autumn roll was my undisputed favorite. A specialty of central Vietnam, Trang proclaimed his version the Autumn roll. It reflects the season well, with a cool collection of lettuce, herbs, and pineapple surrounding a mixture of ground shrimp and pork hot off the grill. The contrast of hot and cool works well, and the sweetness of the pineapple plays so well with the grilled meat and herbal bouquet. Trang’s original vegetable sauce is a crafty creation. Fish sauce also plays well with the autumn roll.
The winter roll seems rather unassuming at first. But it is balanced carefully, and probably represents the most nutritious roll of the four. Another favorite of south Vietnam inspired Trang’s mixture of grated jicama and carrot, Chinese style sausage, ground peanuts, dried shrimp, and flecks of scrambled egg. It seems light and comforting at the same time.
The Hoisin style sauce adds the perfect amount of sweet and tangy flavors to the Winter roll. It reigns as my current favorite, as well as Trang’s.
When i asked for something spicy on the menu, he ordered his mussels to my table. I had never tried them. I’m glad I did. Good God knows they’re fine. The incredibly lively sauce of citrus, chilies, onions, fish sauce, and cinnamon basil would make a great foil for grilled chicken wings. Or grilled anything. Ask for the mussels. Ask for them spicy. Tell him Andy sent you. He’ll know what to do.
PS: “He’ll know what to do.” I know that last comment was pretty cheesy, but it made me think about my favorite date or dinner party. First, I dine at Trang’s and talk to him about creating a menu. I book the table, the wine, and the meal while i enjoy lunch. Then, you just bring your guests to the table on the appointed night and Trang’s staff go to work. No need to order or even look at the menu. Of course, you want to know what the people like to eat before hand. It is an especially nice way to introduce people to Vietnamese food or show gratitude. You’re not just taking them to dinner, you’ve chosen a luxurious 4 to 6 course meal and wine as a distinct act of love.
Don’t forget the fried bananas for dessert. More about that another time.
June 24th, 2008 at 10:51 am
Even in SF, we’ve yet to find a Vietnamese restaurant that satisfies as much as Trang’s. It’s one of the hidden gems of Tampa that we miss the most.
October 27th, 2008 at 4:02 pm
I like this restaurant as everything is so neat.
Just one comment.
The dipping sauce is a bit too much. The manager must be an Quiet American, I guess!