Delicious History

After a tough day, it is sometimes best to take a step back, appreciate what you have, and share the love.

I did something rather silly recently, and I almost came to regret it. I offered to prepare a gumbo feast for a work-related fund raiser: The annual University of South Florida Faculty and Staff Campaign, which solicits employees to donate part of their wages to the university. I’m still quite short of my fundraising goal.

Getting coworkers to give, many of whom earn mediocre wages, is a very hard sell, especially in these tough times. But the campaign is a very noble effort, as there are so many areas of the university to celebrate and support. In my research of USF’s history, I’ve seen so many ways it has changed peoples lives from all over the world. If USF made me respectable (which is debatable), it has worked wonders, indeed.

I like my job and the people I work with, and I thought it would be fun to share something delicious with them and lay my gourmet reputation on the line. I will be serving just 30 tomorrow. Perhaps I’ve overestimated the curiosity of librarians. I know how many of my co workers eat Lean Cuisine, Subway, and McD’s on a daily. I was amazed at how few people signed on for a fine free meal prepared lovingly by a colleague.

Of course, I should be thankful that I only have 30 to serve. If it was 50 or 60 instead, I would surely have needed two nights for cooking. and two more crock pots. and much more patience. But i counted many more of my blessings as it i set out to cook the best gumbo I’d ever made. I’m given wonderful opportunities for creativity and professional growth at work, and being able to hold such an event is more a privilege than a duty.

I set out to make Gumbo Ya Ya, a Paul Prudhomme recipe made famous by a restaurant called Mr. B’s, part of the Brennan’s empire. Gumbo Ya Ya is an old New Orleans saying that refers to the loud chaotic banter of a party, with everyone talking at once. It also means everyone talking at once, the multi ethnic and multi-lingual mish mash of that unique Creole city. I adapted the dish from Emeril Lagasse’s Every Day’s a Party: Louisiana Recipes. I change the timing a bit, and don’t mess with a whole chicken, just breasts and drumsticks.

The first two times I went to New Orleans expressly for the spectacle and debauchery of Mardi Gras. I was young, thirsty, and poor. I’m so glad I rediscovered the city in subsequent visits. I found Mr. B’s Gumbo Ya Ya to be my favorite specimen. Unlike many gumbos, it calls for a very dark roux, which requires more time and diligence. I blew my first attempt to make a roux two years ago— too much heat and an inferior stock pot. Late last year, I made a passable version but scorched it while reheating. Other times, it seemed much too oily. I resolved to master Gumbo Ya Ya a couple nights before a charity event with 30 of my co-workers. Pretty stupid, huh?

Although I was grouchy after work and just wanted to take a nap, I let all that go and started to prep. I felt better the moment I turned on the heat: I focused on good things, and the challenge I so blithely charged in to.

My ingredients: 24 cups low sodium chicken stock, 3-3.5 lbs of chicken drumsticks, 3-3.5 lbs of boneless skinless chicken breasts, 6 bay leaves, 4.5 cups vegetable oil, 4.5 cups bleached all purpose flour, approx 2 lbs. andouille sausage, 4 medium diced yellow onion, 2 diced green peppers, 2 tsp cayenne pepper, 3 cups diced celery, approx 2 lbs. smoked sausage (i prefer hot), 2 bunches diced green onions, 6 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

My first impulse was to cheat and use store bought chicken stock. Instead, I compromised and poached my chicken breasts and drum sticks in the bought chicken broth with bay leaves to richen it. I set the cooked chicken aside. I especially like this method because you don’t have to pick a whole chicken apart, as the original recipe calls for. No bones, no veins, no carving, etc. This assumes importance when you’re cooking for 30 people. The breast meat– which i chopped after poaching– is good for picky eaters, and the drumsticks please those with big appetites.

As always, making the roux would be the biggest challenge. When making a roux, you are basically frying flour in an equal amount of fat at medium heat until they incorporate and make a gravy of sorts. The darkness of the roux helps dictate the depth of the flavor. If you don’t vigilantly stir, parts of the flour begin to burn, the gumbo tastes scorched, and does not hold together. Don’t get too enthusiastic and splash around— this frying paste is like kitchen napalm.

Be prepared to adjust temperature and stir constantly. I always keep my phone close by, because talking to friends and family make the half hour of stirring go by more quickly.

See the Gumbo photos here.

I’m grateful that co workers have pitched in to make salad, desserts, gourmet crackers, and bring Cuban bread and beverages. I’m also bringing a simple shrimp with mustard remoulade to serve beside the salad or on the bread. I will deploy a squadron of 2 crock pots and 3 rice cookers.

Next year, I’m thinking of having a chili contest instead. Or a pasta throwdown or something.

If you’re interested, check out USF’s Faculty and Staff Campaign while you’re at it. There are so many worthy programs for health, academics, athletics, research and especially the libraries. They are the engines of intellectual industry. and they have a lot of cool stuff.

http://usfweb2.usf.edu/fscc/CampaignInformation.asp

This entry was posted on Tuesday, June 17th, 2008 at 9:35 pm and is filed under Cooking and Recipes, Entertaining, Foodways/Culture, University of South Florida. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.